Specialty Grab Bars
Sometimes you need a simple handhold to steady yourself as you pass through a doorway, enter or exit a stairway, or lift yourself from a favorite chair. For these situations, we have a selection of inexpensive, strong grab bars that are easy to install. All have integrated flanges for fastening to structurally solid material, and grip areas that are stout and easy to grasp. With in-line and offset models to choose from, you’re sure to cover any unique situation in a home or business, and the newel post grab rail is a one-of-a-kind option that has proven its value to many homeowners.
Flat end grab bars have an in-line configuration and are made of rustproof stainless steel, so they can serve your needs in both indoor and outdoor applications. Diameter of the grip area is 1″.
Cranked grab bars have an offset profile to make the grip easier to access from some approach angles. These models are made of mild steel (not appropriate for wet area use). The grip area is 1″ in diameter.
The newel grab bar’s unique bend actually wraps around a 90° outside corner. Originally designed for newel post installations at the top and bottom of stairwells, this equipment is also suitable for archways, doorways, and any place you have an external corner to serve as a mounting platform. Grip area diameter is 1¼″.
Padded back rests are another unique and helpful device. They provide a comfortable place to lean against while using a toilet and help prevent damage to toilet tank connections. They also offer a sturdy grab bar to steady oneself while approaching or departing a toilet.
Fasteners are not included with grab bars since only the installer can judge how long screws need to be for any particular installation. Round head screws are recommended (for fastener details, please see the product specification sheets).
- Uniquely shaped grab bars for special areas around a home
- Powder coated for durability
- Made of tubular steel
Please see product specification sheets for details.
Grab bars must be mounted to substantial, well-secured blocking, usually of 2× solid wood (toenailing is not sufficient; use cleats or notch blocking into studs), though brick, concrete, or concrete block can also be suitable mounting materials.
#10 round head fasteners fasteners recommended (do not use flat head type fasteners); use stainless steel fasteners in wet area installations; each fastener must be capable of withstanding 77 lbs. of pull-out force; the length of fasteners will depend on the distance to drive them deeply into an appropriately reinforced surface capable of supporting the load; drive a properly sized fastener into every mounting plate hole to achieve the full load rating.
What You'll Need
- grab bar
- power drill
- measuring tape
- fasteners (use #10 round head in a length appropriate for the wall material and thickness; stainless steel recommended for wet area installations)
How do I know if I need a left or a right Newel Grab Bar?
While facing toward the stairs, you would need a left Newel Grab Bar to mount to the left newel post or corner, and a right Newel Grab Bar to mount to the right newel post or corner.
Can I use any of these specialty grab bars outdoors?
Flat end grab bars are made of stainless steel and are appropriate for outdoor use. All other specialty grab bars, being made of carbon steel, would rust over time.
Can I mount the flat end or cranked grab bars to drywall?
Drywall isn’t structural, so there is no way it would support much weight, let alone the stress from someone grabbing the bar during a fall. Never rely on anything but solid 2x wood blocking, concrete, concrete block, or some other substantial material as a mounting platform for a grab bar. Drywall can be covering the surface over that substantial material, but fasteners have to penetrate deep into the mounting platform.
What is the pad made of on a padded back rest?
The pad is made of closed cell foam. It is quite firm and will not absorb water.
Can the padded back rest be used as a grab bar?
Yes, they can. The bar on these back rests is very stout and the fact that they project from the wall a good distance makes them a natural handhold. Be sure back rests are fastened to solid blocking either in the wall or on the wall. The blocking must be well secured to the wall framing. This may require an installer to open the wall to fasten 2x wood blocking between studs. Screw cleats to the studs, then screw the blocking to the cleats (toenailing blocking to studs is insufficient for any load bearing device like a grab bar or seat). An installer could also screw through the studs into the ends of the blocking, though this requires a bigger opening into the wall to expose more stud bays. Alternatively, a strong piece of lumber can be fastened to the outside of the wall so long as the fasteners reach deeply into the framing; then the back rest can be secured to the piece of lumber.